wd~50, New York (June 2012)

It's not everyday that one hears a server and a bartender joking about bedding a mother and daughter two-top (and the ensuing therapy they would need) in a Michelin-starred establishment. Indeed, I have a fairly large sample from which to draw, and I can't say I've ever been within earshot of such a sordid confab in a restaurant. 

Even if I were to overlook that cassoulet of claudication, I still wouldn't have much praise to shower on wd~50. Yes, the dense soufflé-like scrambled egg ravioli was as delicious as I hoped it would be, but that plate also included wholly superfluous slices of kanpachi, as if someone placed them there when Chef Dufresne wasn't looking. The one course for which I couldn't find fault was the slightly tart but also thoroughly refreshing aerated yuzu ice cream. The same could not be said of the "Amaro Yolk, Chicken Confit, Peas 'N' Carrots": while a clever use of trompe l'oeil with carrot orbs made to look like peas, it was marred by a gummy cured duck yolk and an unpleasantly mealy chicken confit.

Initially, I was miffed when seated at the bar--despite making a reservation thirty days in advance--unable to occupy a table as a solo diner.* It didn't take long, however, for me to be thankful, as I was able to order four courses that piqued my interest and leave within forty-five minutes, having incurred minimal financial damage without any intention of returning.

* A compact two-top, I noticed, remained vacant throughout my brief meal.

Sesame flatbread

Amuse:  cobia, peas, pea purée, and tamarind consommé

Scrambled egg ravioli, charred avocado, kanpachi and potato crisps

Carrot ribbons, carrot spheres dusted with pea powder, amaro-cured duck egg yolk, pea purée and chicken confit

 Aerated yuzu milk ice cream, basil fluid gel, hazelnut crumbs and compressed rhubarb

Brioche French toast, brown butter ice cream, raisin crisp, apricot-raisin purée and bacon crumble

Red pepper madeleine